lavender munstead plants Munstead English Lavender
SKU: 55000893765
lavender munstead plants

lavender munstead plants Munstead English Lavender

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Description

lavender munstead plants Munstead English Lavender(12 16" tall x 24" wide) As the quintessential culinary lavender, 'Munstead' has been a mainstay of the herb garden for years. Its high essential oil content makes it a great choice for fragrant crafts, such as creating potpourris, sachets, and soaps. Compact in size, 'Munstead' is a great addition to rock gardens and containers, and will create an easy to care for hedge to line walkways and paths. As 'Munstead' is hardier than most English Lavenders,

(12-16" tall x 24" wide) As the quintessential culinary lavender, 'Munstead' has been a mainstay of the herb garden for years. Its high essential oil content makes it a great choice for fragrant crafts, such as creating potpourris, sachets, and soaps. Compact in size, 'Munstead' is a great addition to rock gardens and containers, and will create an easy-to-care-for hedge to line walkways and paths. As 'Munstead' is hardier than most English Lavenders, it overwinters well and blooms profusely each spring, attracting butterflies and native bees to its flowers.

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Success with Lavender:

Originating in the Mediterranean, lavender prefers hot sunny days, dry air, and non-enriched, well-drained soil. While that’s great news for those gardening in the West, nowadays lavender can also be successfully grown in higher-humidity areas of the East and Pacific Northwest very successfully by remembering its basic needs. Be sure to pick a variety that is matched to your area. Depending upon your location and your desired use, there are lavenders for almost any setting. Next, follow the four basic elements to ensure lavender success:

1. SUN Lavender loves sun. Plant them in a sunny location where there is plenty of air circulation. Six to eight hours of sun is best, but some afternoon shade is fine in the hotter climates of the Southwest.

2. AIR Good air circulation is essential, especially in areas of high humidity. Lavender is not fond of damp, still air, which makes it prone to root rot. In humid areas, plant them with ample spacing, keeping in mind the mature size of your plant when in bloom and allowing for a bit extra space for good circulation.

3. SOIL Well-drained soil. This is perhaps the most important factor in success with lavender. One rule of thumb from is that the soil should be loose enough to dig with your hands, and not cake-like. You can add sand or small gravel to recreate this consistency if your soil is too compact. In areas where drainage may be a problem, mound the soil up to create a raised row or stand-alone mound.

In humid areas especially, a 1-2” mulch of pea sized gravel or white sand will do two things – it will help improve drainage, and it will reflect heat and light back up into the plant. More heat = more fragrant blooms! If you use a weed barrier, make sure it is breathable so the soil can drain and the roots can breathe. Gardeners struggling with growing lavender successfully in humid areas are encouraged to try planting Lavender Phenomenal.

4. WATER During the first year of your lavender’s growth it needs to establish a good root system. It will require regular watering (unless you’re experiencing healthy rain fall). Starting in the second year, your lavender will need less water, as it becomes the water-thrifty plant you’re hoping for, but to get there it needs to grow deep roots in year one. By the end of year three it will have reached its mature size and shouldn’t need any extra water. If water is needed, water in the morning, and deeply, to help root growth. A mature lavender plant is happy with only 9-12 inches of rain per year, but remember, with the right variety and good drainage lavender can thrive with more water.

Learn How to Grow Lavender in Detail.

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D. Alexander
Cuba, US
★★★★★ 5
Buy this one, forget the rest
This is one of the most powerful handheld electric blowers available. If you're serious about getting the job done quickly, this is the baseline. The next power tier is a gas backpack blower at five times the cost, then an even more powerful backpack, and then four-digit specialty tools from companies like Billy Goat. I bought the Worx because I didn't want to spend three hours raking a half-acre of grass. My trial run was an hour of continuous use with matted wet leaves and driveway sand. It fast became apparent that to be efficient, a blower has to move leaves without being on top of them. Blowing from six inches just makes everything scatter as piles build up. You end up crisscrossing the section you just cleared to deal with the strays. The further your breeze carries, the more direct the flight path of the leaves. This range, and the ability to scour stubborn leaves from the ground, comes from air speed (MPH). At the same time, though, you need a big enough wall of air to move more than one leaf at once. That comes from the size of your pipe opening. The two multiplied together determine your total air volume over a duration, or CFM (cubic feet per minute). In physics-land (with spherical cows and turbulence-free pipes, spared from the icy hand of marketing), CFM is the best measure of a blower's work capacity. MPH, you can change by varying the size of the pipe; a smaller pipe makes a smaller column of air moving at a faster speed (and more impressive advertising), which is why a lot of consumer-class blowers have tiny nozzles. (I'm looking at you, Sun Joe SBJ601E.) But there's a cost to adding MPH: it kills efficiency. The energy to move a volume of air goes up with the square of speed, so if you design your blower for 160 MPH, you'll get half the CFM of a 110 MPH blower from the same power. Something to mull if the blower is powered by a battery. Still, if you know either speed or CFM, and the size of the pipe, you can calculate the other (assuming the manufacturer isn't misleading you by quoting CFM at the fan and MPH at the end of the pipe). To get CFM from MPH and the radius of a round pipe, the calculation is (radius^2)*(mph)*(1.92). That's (1.69^2)(110)(1.92) for this blower's 110 MPH and 3 3/8" pipe, with the result arriving right at the rated number of 600 CFM. Anyway, the Worx has enough volume and speed to blow mounds of wet leaves from six feet and dry ones from ten or more. It's impressively powerful. I was switching arms every few minutes as they wore out from the backward force. Only some really baked-on mud would have benefited from a pipe-reducer attachment. Thanks to ape-like proportions or the secure fit of my spandex leaf-blowing onesie, clothing suction from the rear-directed air intake hasn't been a bother. ALTERNATIVES: I almost bought Toro's highly-rated "Ultra" combination blower to minimize bagging, but the vacuum functionality didn't seem that useful in videos. Maybe it'd be adequate to clean an enclosed deck area or a small yard with a scattering of dry leaves. For a larger yard, it looks like a time sink relative to a standalone mulcher. Likewise the blowing capacity, which, at 410 CFM, trails the Worx by quite a lot. Cordless tools were also tempting. There's a 20V DeWalt people seem to like that's rated at (a perhaps optimistic) 400 CFM. Because it's a similar fan design to the Worx, we can compare power directly. DeWalt's standard battery is 20V (or so we'll stipulate; it's closer to 18V under load) and 5 amp-hours, so we're looking at 100 watt-hours total output. 15 minutes of runtime translates to a sustained draw, best case, of 400W. Assuming 90% efficiency in the brushless motor, that's 360W actually moving air. (When new. Expect a performance drop over time and battery replacements by year three.) Compare this Worx: 12 amps at 120V equates to 1440 watts sustained, in this case feeding a 2-pole AC/DC motor that's perhaps 55% efficient. 12A is close to the maximum a device can reasonably expect from a typical 15A household socket. Even with nearly half of our power lost to heat and noise, the remaining 790W is over double what the DeWalt can manage. It's no coincidence that 600 CFM cordless blowers (Greenworks and Kobalt come to mind) have 80V/2.5Ah batteries with twice the DeWalt's capacity. Their runtime at full tilt? The same fifteen minutes, with three extra pounds to lug around from a chunk of lithium that costs more than the blower it attaches to. And what of gas blowers? The handheld versions have around 1 HP with CFM from 450 to 500. They're usually tuned for higher MPH than the Worx, so they're likely to be a little better with wet leaves and a little worse with dry ones. Backpack blowers up the displacement and make between 1.5 and 5 horsepower. The models that you might find on the back of a professional landscaper can manage nearly 1000 CFM with speeds around 200 MPH. That's a considerable difference, but you pay for it at the checkout and in weight: figure 10 pounds or so for a handheld (relative to 7ish for this unit, plus some cord) and 20 or more for a backpack. As of mid-2020, two other corded blowers are worth a hard look: Toro's F700 and Worx's WG521. The Toro arrived first in 2019 with a hefty 720 CFM rating, a bigger two-arm handle, and a better cord retention mechanism. The WG521 is the response: 800 CFM and 135 MPH (claimed) from a ~4" nozzle, albeit still intended for one arm. All three blowers are beastly and often close in price; pick whichever best channels your inner Tim Allen. ACCESSORIES: A motor this powerful benefits from a thick (low gauge) cord for longer runs. You lose a bit of performance with thinner cord. The generic orange 50-foot extension everyone has is 16-gauge. Feeding a 12A load for 50 feet, it'll have a voltage drop of about 5V. Heavier 14-gauge loses 2.5V on the same run, and industrial 12-gauge, only 1.5V. The scale is linear, so if you double up that 16-gauge cord for a 100-foot run, you'll lop off 10V. How's that play out here? From a short and fat cable (that the cheesy plastic strain-relief piece won't actually accommodate; just tie an overhand knot over the two plugs instead), we'd expect a 1440W draw (12A * 120V, or a bit less because the house wiring itself has some drop). Losing 5V drops the total to 1380W. That's about what I found when I tested the Worx with a watt meter. 12ag / 3 ft = 1423W 14ag / 100 ft = 1352W 16ag / 50 ft = 1351W 16ag / 50 ft + 14ag / 100 ft = 1280W With the progressive thumb dial at the lowest setting, minimum draw was 260W. For shorter runs, disconnect extensions you don't actively need. Every cable sheds a percentage of the energy it carries to heat. As above, skinny cables lose more. Coiled on the ground and coupled with a high-load device like the Worx, they can build up enough heat to start melting insulation, which tends to cause sheepish expressions and insurance claims. This blower is also loud enough to merit hearing protection. On an A-weighted scale (approximating human hearing), measured outdoors from three feet, it makes 82 dB on low and 91 dB on high. Indoors or near a wall, volume jumps by 10 dB and subjectively doubles. While the sound character emulates a vacuum, my Shark only measures 72 dB indoors; you'd have to run over a rat's nest of lamp cords to make one this loud. Amazon has a number of comfortable muffs for less than a Jackson that'll keep your ears intact. You can find electric blowers with more toys, but few that'll get the job done as fast as this one. It's a bargain at the asking price. I'll update if I catch any reliability problems.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 1, 2016
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Verified Purchase
R. Klein
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
Light, and easy to use for blowing leaves
I bought this in the fall of 2025, and found it very easy to use. I also have a Toro blower/vac, that I use to grind up leaves in the fall. While this appliance is only good for blowing leaves, it does a good job of it. It's quieter than the Toro, and considerably lighter in weight. I find it much less fatiguing on the hand than the Toro. It has multiple speeds, so is versatile. You don't ALWAYS want maximum wind from these things, depending on the job and the space. The weight, comfortable handle, balance, and lower noise are the top advantages to this machine. Because this is a corded model, there's no concern over battery life. You can blow the afternoon away without a care. Only time will tell when it comes to durability. 🤞🏻
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Reviewed in the United States on January 13, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Teng Ma
New York, US
★★★★★ 5
Great Power for the Price
Really impressed with this blower. It’s lightweight, easy to handle, and has plenty of power to clear grass and leaves quickly. Perfect for quick yard cleanups. Definitely worth.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Over and Under
Louisville, US
★★★★★ 5
The Black and Decker BESTA510 is a KEEPER plus it's made in the USA 🇺🇲
Style: String Trimmer
Well folks🙂 I have to tell you this has been a nice weed eater that cuts really good and it's LIGHTWEIGHT and it's powerful👍 and at a PRICE that can't be beat...it's way more powerful than some battery and electric weed eaters that I have.. like a Ryobi... And supposedly a commercial grade Ryobi $200 😤.. Anyway 🙂 This electric weed eater is very good and I'll take that PEPSI challenge any day 😀 when comparing it to some other weed eaters PLUS it doesn't USE LINE like other electric weed eaters that I've used.. at least that's been my experience.. This is a KEEPER weed eater from Black & Decker👍....it handles tall grass and even some hedge... though it probably shouldn't be used for hedge but it's TOUGH 😀 and better than any battery weed eater I used especially with the power and cutting... The power alone and convenience of NOT rushing through the job with the battery pack and charging ect imo is worth the cord drag 🙂... and much better than a battery weed eater or other electric weed eaters.. This just cuts better 👍... With MORE power consistently and constantly through the whole job... So in conclusion 🙂 the Black & Decker BESTA510 weed eater in my opinion is a KEEPER and this model has been around for a while which speaks for itself not to mention Black & Decker has been around for years.... This weed eater OVERALL (pound for pound ) is a solid performer with many mostly liking this weed eater and Black & Decker products overall.. Thanks for reading🙂.. I hope my review helps... and Did I mention It's made in the USA...🇺🇲..🙂...
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Reviewed in the United States on September 6, 2025
L
Verified Purchase
Lucas B Hager
Pawtucket, US
★★★★★ 5
No problems all the way to the end of the spool
Style: String Trimmer
I had an old Greenworks string trimmer that I found in the basement after I moved into my new home. Maybe it was just old, but the auto-feed didn't work well, the line was always running out, and I spent more time rewinding the spool than cutting down weeds. I had almost lost my faith in string trimmers entirely. You can spend $300 on one, but how much better are they? I didn't know. This Black & Decker was only $50, and although it's corded, my roommate convinced me it was worth not having to do the dance of recharging batteries, plus having full 110v power. Some (easy) assembly required out of the box, and this thing was basically plug & play. I did read through the owner's manual first, which gave amateur me some confidence through a few helpful tips. I use it not only for cutting down weeds, but also for cleaning out weeds from the cracks in my sidewalk, and the edger wheel is very helpful for that. More importantly, the line had no problems all the way to the end of the spool. Faith restored, there are good string trimmers in the world. That being said, be aware that the line it comes with isn't very long. My lawn is medium-size, and it ran out about halfway through. The Black & Decker replacement spools are $10 / 30 ft (much longer), but it goes through line, so this could really add up. Replacing the spool was easy, and I was able to finish my lawn with plenty line to spare. A quick search on Amazon reveals off brand spools at $15 / 12-pack. I haven't tested them yet, but the price difference is so great that I'm going to give them a chance.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 19, 2023

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